2021-12-19
81Collar design
The collar design of clothing is the basis of clothing design, and the national collar type is the richest one among them. Its shape, height and size directly affect the clothing style. Among the numerous collar types, according to the structure, it can be generally classified into four categories: stand collar, lapel collar, flat collar and lapel collar.
stand collar
It is also divided into a stand collar that is close to the neck, such as a cheongsam collar; Stand collar with a slight gap with the neck, such as some decorative collars. Stand collar has the characteristics of preciseness, straightness and solemnity, which is suitable for Chinese clothing. The traditional student dress is also a stand collar structure.
Lapel
Such as shirt collar, small lapel, etc. Collar surface is the key point of style change, with circular, square, and pointed designs. The collar type is optional, suitable for people with a variety of face types and neck types. The design is flexible.
Flat collar
Also called flat collar or basin collar. The collar surface is flat, and the shoulder is spread, such as the ruff collar, navy shirt collar, etc. It often gives people a free, lively and unrestrained feeling, and can overcome the weakness of narrow shoulders and short neck.
Lapel
It is widely used on the collar of a suit, with a complex structure and a V-shaped opening, which can offset the shortcomings of short neck and round face, showing the characteristics of slender, dignified and steady modeling. The lapel of the suit has very subtle style changes. The design of the collar should take into account the features of the face, the length and thickness of the neck, and make full use of the principle of visual error to select and design the collar. If the neck is short and thick, it is appropriate to choose a deep and narrow neckline. If the long face type is matched with a round collar, it will weaken the weakness of long neck.
In a word, when designing collars, we should give consideration to beauty and coordination, and design shapes differently for people. When decorating the collar, many methods such as piping, embroidering, and setting off with different cloth are used to make it harmonious with the whole.
Sleeve design
There are many types of sleeves, which can be divided into lantern sleeves, trumpet sleeves, suit sleeves, etc. according to their modeling characteristics; According to the production method, it can be divided into sleeve, raglan sleeve, raglan sleeve, etc; According to the number of sleeves, it can be divided into single sleeve, two sleeves and three sleeves. The sleeves are made by connecting the sleeves of the big body with the shoulders, and the armholes are combined. Such sleeves are used in daily clothes such as suits and shirts; The sleeves of the raglan sleeves are connected with the shoulders, and the sleeves are dug deeper for movement. Such as long and short overcoats, pajamas, etc; The serial sleeve is a shoulder sleeve integrated structure, which is loose and comfortable. It is mainly used for home clothes, casual wear, etc. It is also a typical Chinese sleeve. The sleeve shape design should meet the arm movement of the human body, and there should be appropriate looseness in the sleeve hill, armhole, sleeve elbow and other parts. Even when changing the sleeve shape, you should also pay attention to this. Secondly, we can make corresponding changes according to the style, fabric and style. The sleeves are usually decorated by techniques, such as removing pleats, adding bows, ribbons, and some decorative buttons, logos, sleeve pockets, etc.
Bag design
According to the process characteristics, the pockets on clothing can be generally divided into three categories: patch pockets, insert pockets and dig pockets. The patch pocket is a kind of pocket that directly cuts the cloth into various bag shapes and sews them on the surface of the garment piece, so it is also called the open pocket. It is simple to make, but it should be flat and upright, with many bright line decorations. The style changes freely, and is mostly used for children's wear and leisure wear. Bagging is a kind of simple and concealed bag type, which usually leaves a pocket opening from the seam, such as the side pocket of trousers. The bag digging is made by cutting the opening of the bag on the surface of the garment piece. It is called a concealed bag.
It is widely used in men's and women's clothing due to its high process requirements and various varieties. When designing the bag type, it is required to fully consider whether the proportion, size, color, position, style and other factors are coordinated with the whole. Generally speaking, children's clothing, work clothes and travel clothes should pay attention to the bag design, while pajamas and gowns do not emphasize the bag design, and soft silk clothes do not add pockets. The pocket opening size is determined according to the average width of men's and women's palms. Generally, men's pockets are 16-18cm, and women's pockets are 14-15cm. There are many decorative techniques for pockets, including stitching, pleating, edging, decorative buttons, embroidery patterns, etc. But they should be consistent with the overall harmony and style.
